San Marcos La Laguna, Lago de Atitlán
New Age and Natural Beauty in the Highlands of Guatemala
Jan 22, 2009
One of the highlights of any trip to Guatemala is a visit to the highlands and the impressive Lago de Atitlán. Here, travelers can appreciate the beautiful landscape, as well as experience the customs and traditions of the legendary Maya people. However, visitors to the lakeside village of San Marcos La Laguna will discover an international spiritual refuge hidden in the highlands.
Visiting Lago de Atitlán
The product of a collapsed volcano, the clean and clear Lago de Atitlán is considered the deepest lake in Central America. Surrounded by mountains and three volcanoes, the lake boasts breathtaking scenery, and is home to numerous small towns with significant indigenous populations.
The best way to reach Lago de Atitlán is to take a bus to Panajachel (Pana), the most developed and heavily trafficked of more than a dozen villages surrounding the lake. While Pana offers nice views, many travelers prefer to stay in one of the smaller, more traditional towns accessible only by a 15-45 minute boat ride.
San Marcos La Laguna’s Unique Mix of Cultures
One village worth exploring is the tranquil San Marcos La Laguna. Approximately 2,000-3,000 Kaqchikel speaking Mayans live in San Marcos, subsisting on agriculture (such as corn, coffee, and bananas). However, perhaps most fascinating about San Marcos is its surprising international community.
Since the 1980s, San Marcos has been a New Age enclave, attracting people from all over the world dedicated to an alternative lifestyle. Foreigners descend upon San Marcos to teach, study, or practice activities such as meditation, yoga, reiki, massage therapy, and energy work. The famous Las Pirámides Meditation Centre offers a month long Moon-course, which addresses spiritual topics and ends in a week of silence and fasting.
There is a clear physical division between the international and local communities, with foreigners occupying the area between the main dock and the center of town. Thus, visitors interested in interacting with the indigenous community should consider volunteering. (Organizations such as Soul Projects and La Cambalacha offer volunteer opportunities.)
A Relaxing Break From Reality
Absent from the chicken buses, pollution, and noise characteristic of other Guatemalan cities, visitors to San Marcos La Laguna can find peace and quiet, and breathe clean air. Humble, calm, and natural, there are virtually no cars or electricity in San Marcos. However, compost toilets are not uncommon and organic food is abundant. A trip to San Pedro La Laguna is necessary for a bar, nightclub, or supermarket, but there are plenty of outdoor activities available to keep visitors busy, including snorkeling, kayaking, and horseback riding.
Can't stomach another corn tortilla with rice and beans? Try a delicious, fresh tofu burrito, hummus platter, or tempeh scramble. Can't visit more Mayan ruins? Take a yoga class, rent a bike, or get a rejuvenating and therapeutic massage (students offer cheap services). Can't stand another cold shower? Wake up with a swim in the lake and take in the panorama (just be sure to leave valuable personal items in the hostel, as petty theft is common).
San Marcos may not be representative of Guatemalan society (or most other places in the world), but it has its own distinct culture to be discovered. Tired travelers looking to chill out and disconnect for a while, or teach others to do the same will welcome the slow pace and healthy lifestyle of San Marcos La Laguna.
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