Caribbean in feel, Livingston is unique among Guatemala's towns and cities, and the food is a true Guatemalan highlight.
The fact that Livingston, Guatemala can be reached only by boat is just one of the things that makes it unique among Guatemala’s cities. Surrounded by water and jungle, Livingston is a settlement of Garífuna people, dark-skinned decendents of Africans and mestizo Guatemalans who speak Spanish, their own Garífuna language, and English.
To the foreigner’s eye, Livingston has more of a feeling of “Caribbean” than “Central American” in its slow pace, complex rhythms, and spicy curried food. For a view of a completely different side of Guatemala, Livingston is well worth a visit.
What to do in Livingston, Guatemala
Once in Livingston, you’ll find everything you need – hotels, restaurants, banks, shops - on the main street which leads up from the Municipal Dock, runs straight through town, and ends at the beach.There isn’t much to “do” per se in Livingston other than relax, hang out, eat, and go dancing.
It’s perfectly safe to stroll off the main tourist street and into the town beyond, for a glimpse of ordinary Garífuna life and ocean views. You might take a walk along the not-too-clean-beach, but swimming is not recommended. For a better beach experience, take a lancha to Playa Blanca, an hour away.
From Livingston daytrips are possible to Siete Altares (Seven Altars). About five kilometers away, it's possible to walk, or you could take a boat tour to this remarkable multi-tiered grouping of waterfalls and natural pools.
When evening approaches, have a “coco loco” – a rum drunk served in a fresh green coconut shell. Bars and clubs playing Garifuna music abound. Just stroll around town until you find one that's hopping.
Where to Stay in Livingston, Guatemala
Accomodation in Livingston is rather basic, but usually comfortable, with prices starting at $5 US/ 40 quetzales per night for a room with shared bath. At the lower end of the price scale The Rios Tropicales offers rooms with loads of atmosphere and a fairly extensive book exchange. For a more upscale (and more expensive) hotel try Tucan Dugu, just up from the dock.
Further away from town and right on the river, Casa Rosada has individual thatch-roofed bungalows and a restaurant. Hotel Ecologico Salvador Gaviota is a self-sustainable eco-hotel with its own beach.
Where to Eat in Livingston, Guatemala
You almost can’t go wrong when eating in Livingston. Just follow the crowds. The specialty of the area is a Garifuna dish called tapado, a thick stew of fish, shrimp, crab, and plantains in a rich coconut broth.
Highly recommended is Tlingo Lingo, a small restaurant down at the opposite end of the main street from the dock. The proprietress, Maria, will fix you a fantastic plate of food and entertain you with stories of her life in the US, Mexico, and India. Vegetarian options are available.
How to Get to Livingston, Guatemala
Of the two ways to reach Livingston, the lancha (fast motorboat) from Rio Dulce is the option offering the best scenery. Tiny greenish-yellow butterflies flutter across the river as you pass through mangrove channels thick with white egrets, villages on stilts, and even a largle flat rock covered with grafitti that dates back to the 1400’s. The trip will take about an hour and a half including stops for photo opportunities for the passengers and personal errands for the lanchero (boat driver).
The other way to reach Livingston, from Puerto Barrios, has its charms as well, though the ferry (1.5 hours) can get crowded and you may find yourself squatting on the floor for the entire ride. A lancha from Puerto Barrios is faster than the ferry, but you'll have to wait until all fifteen seats are filled, which could take from minutes to hours.
A stop in Livingston will take you only slightly out of your way if you're traveling overland between the Mayan ruins of Tikal in the north and Guatemala City or Antigua in the south.
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